Cycling England's Cotswolds
Cycling the Cotswolds is somewhat like stepping back in time. This region once flourished due to the wool trade. The wealthy wool merchants endowed their local churches and towns. When the industry failed, these lovely villages and towns remained pretty much "stuck in time." This is one of the endearing qualities which now draws a number of visitors to the area.
There is some dispute as to the actual borders of the Cotswolds. For our purposes, we considered Oxford to be on the far east border. This city has some of the most well known and established colleges in the world. An Oxford education is quite prestigious. Oxford makes for a good starting point for a tour. It’s is easily accessed from the airports as well as from London and it has a number of attractions itself. Stratford upon Avon was our northern border for the Cotswolds; with the southern point being the Roman city of Bath. Follow the map as you read the following description of a round trip from Oxford. The entire route is a total of 256 miles.
The first 33.9 mile ride starts at Oxford. There are several options to reach Oxford from Heathrow or London, including rental car, bus, or train. We chose the bus, which was cost effective and direct from the airport. There are space limitations on the bus; however, and bikes must be covered (not boxed). After a good rest overnight, the 1st ride took us from Oxford, following the signs to Woodstock Road then on a bicycle path with runs alongside the road all the way to Woodstock. After Woodstock, you soon turn off toward Charlbury and then through the Wychwood towns..(Shipton under Wychwood, Ascot under Wychwood, Milton under Wychwood. These are all under the Wychwood forest; hence the name of "under Wychwood." There are a number of optional routes which may be taken to reach the destination of Stow on the Wold and a number of very bicycle friendly roads to follow. The Oxfordshire cycle routes were marked well and a real country pleasure. Stow-on-the-Wold is one of the highest points in the Cotswolds, so count on a climb at the end of the day. This was once a crossroads of several major trade routes and has quite an interesting square and church and a number of antique shops.
From Stow, it’s downhill then rolling hills all day. You pass through Moreton-in-Marsh; another major Cotswold crossroad. From there it’s on to Aston Magna and Paxton on a one lane country road. Then on through Chipping Campden and Mickelton. At Long Compton, you pick up the bike path into Stratford-upon-Avon. This former rail access starts as an overgrown, rocky path and eventually becomes a paved path just before Stratford.
With so much to see and do in Stratford, we stayed an extra day. If you’re a fan of Shakespeare, just about everything is dedicated to the bard’s name.
From Stratford, we ride to Broadway. This town was once a major stopping point for the coaches which traveled the routes to and from London. Many of the old "Coaching Inns" have now been transformed into B & B’s, Pubs and shops.
The 3rd stage goes east from Stratford on the B439 until the turnoff toward Welford-on-Avon, then through Pebworth, passing again through Mickleton. From here we chose a scenic side trip and climb to Hidcote Manor and gardens. After touring the gardens, we rode the ride until a turnoff to Chipping Campden. This time we spent more time and took in some sites there. Then it’s on to the B4081 to the Willersey cutoff and into Broadway, a ride of 28.7 miles.
The 4th stage goes uphill from Broadway to Snowshill. If the eclectic Manor happens to be open, it’s worth a stop to see their collection of oddities. Then we detoured to Broadway Tower to take in the view on a clear day. From the tower, it’s down through Taddington, Temple Guiting and Kineton, turning at Guiting Stud, going over Chalk Hill to Lower Swell, then through Upper Slaughter. Don’t miss the "ford." Much of the day is spent riding beside the Windrush river. Finally, we left time to stop and walk around Lower Slaughter. This is not overloaded with tourists and is so very pretty. Then on to Bourton-on-the-Water (the Venice of the Cotswolds) a 26.7 mile ride.
The 5th stage goes south and uphill from Bourton-on-the-Water through Farmington; then down into Northleach. From there you ride through Coln St. Dennis and along the River Coln to Bibury; a village preserved by the National Trust… you may have even seen this in some British period films. From Bibury you climb to Barnsley. Go west on rural Welsh Way to White Way; both old Roman roads. White Way goes south directly through Cirencester, which was once the 2nd largest Roman settlement in Brittain. Then it’s on through Somerford Keynes, Oaksey and Hankerton to Stonehill Farm just outside Charlton. This is a 36.5 mile ride.
The 6th stage goes from Charlton to Malmesbury where "mad" monk Elmer strapped on homemade wings and attempted flight. From there, you go through Foxley, Norton, Hullavington and Grittleton to Castle Combe. We chose to stop here and have some lunch as well as to walk around an explore a bit. This is another of these cute little villages which vie for most picturesque. It’s definitely worth a few photos. Climb out the the lovely valley, leaving Castle Combe behind and ride to Ford and Colerne and over Fosse Way. Shortly after crossing Fosse Way we turned off on our chosen route, which was a dirt path leading down into the woods and toward Bath … the back way. This is a popular route for cyclists and ends with four miles downhill into Bath, a 35.4 mile ride.
There was so much to see and do in Bath, we spent an extra day here as well: tour the "Baths"; cycle next to the tow path and also check out the striking architecture.
The next ride is only 1.2 miles by bicycle…. A ride to the rail station in Bath and a ride from the Moreton-in-Marsh rail station. It’s also a rail journey of 93 miles back into the center of the Cotswolds and some time to rest your legs.
Moreton in Marsh is the rail hub of the Cotswolds. It also has one of the largest weekly markets which stretches along the main street and attracts crowds from all around.
The 7th stage goes north from Moreton-in-Marsh on the A429 as in Stage Two, but turns north toward Todenham and goes through Great Wolford and Barton-on-the-Heath, then east through Long Compton, then turns up to the site of the Rollright Stones. Though not as impressive as Stonehenge, these have quite a history themselves and, unlike Stonehenge, you can walk right up and touch them. The route proceeds back through Little Compton, Chastleton, and Adelstrop, then takes local roads through Lower Oddington, Upper Oddington and Icomb, then goes directly south past Little Rissington to Great Barrington, goes east through Taynton and ends in Burford on the Windrush River, a 32.8 mile ride.
The 8th stage leaves Burford going north on High Street, then the A361 to Fulbrook and takes local roads through Swinbrook and across the Windrush to Asthall and back to Asthall Leigh and Fordwells, turns northeast to Leafield, goes by Finstock to the B4022, across River Evenlode and heads southeast to Stonesfield, then to the A44 and Woodstock, a 19.7 mile ride.
The 9th stage retraces our path from Woodstock along the A44 back to Oxford, a ride of 13.3 miles, completing our circuit of the Cotswolds.
If you'd like to know more about this ride, check out our DVD.