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Cycling
West Ireland
A visit to Ireland can take you back to
your family roots or put you in touch with some of the most spectacular scenery
in Europe. The narrow rolling roads and truly green countryside are a breath of
fresh air.
We complemented our cycle rides with Irish Rail to connect some of the more
distant spots and to trace our roots back a few generations and see the land
left behind. Summer is an ideal time for a trip to Ireland. The days are quite
long and allow for leisurely cycling, lots of sightseeing and still plenty of
time for a great meal and a lively visit to the pub. Follow the map as you read
the following description of a round trip from Shannon Airport, just outside
Limerick in the West.
The ride starts at Shannon Airport, outside Limerick. As you exit the airport,
you'll be reminded that driving and riding will be on the left. It seems unusual
at first, especially when making those wide right turns; but you soon adjust.
Follow the signs to Limerick, a 14 mile ride. You begin on the N19 from the
airport. This is a major highway; however, there is a shoulder. After about a
mile and a half you go through your first roundabout. Continue straight. Not
long after that is another larger roundabout which will test your concentration.
This is the junction with the N18, which will take you into Limerick. If you
care to take the time, there is a very enjoyable stop along the N18; Bunratty
Castle and Folk Park. After Bunratty you'll pass through another roundabout with
signs to "Dublin City", which in fact is "Limerick". You'll cross over the River
Shannon on the Sarsfield Bridge and enter Limerick Town Center. You'll want to
begin working your way to the right side of the street as you will want to turn
right and head to the rail station. The 78 mile rail journey to Tralee put us in
a good position for the following day's climb. Jet lag was setting in and we
were ready for a good night's sleep.
The next 35 mile ride goes from Tralee to Dingle, and includes a climb over
Conor Pass at 544 meters. This can be a challenge to anyone, but most especially
if the day is hot. Get an early start, drink lots of liquid and pace yourself.
The reward is a terrific view, if the skies are clear and a fun downhill all the
way from the pass into Dingle.
The following day's ride is a 20 mile loop, beginning and ending in Dingle.
Don't forget your camera, and you may want to take a swimsuit as well. Along the
way you pass some of Ireland's most ancient ruins as well as great views of the
Blasket Islands and Coumeenoole Bay. Slea Head is the westernmost mainland point
in Europe. Not far from here is one of the most remote beaches we've come across
at "Carraig na Pairte".... a real treat on a hot day. Back in Dingle, be sure to
visit the harbor and look for the Dolphin.
The next stage is a 36 mile ride of gently rolling hills from Dingle to
Killorglin. Leave Dingle heading west from the Harbor. You'll pass through
Lispole and follow the signs for Inch Strand, a four mile stretch of sandy beach
in Dingle Bay. After the beach, watch for signs to Castlemaine. From there,
follow the signs the last 8 miles to Killorglin on the river Lough. . Killorglin
is on the famous "Ring of Kerry" loop, where you'll encounter lots of cyclists.
We left Killorglin, with our destination Cahirciveen; 27 miles away. Follow the
N70 toward Glenbeigh. After Glenbeigh you will continue toward Kells, the
highest point of this stage and a good place to stop for refreshments. After
Kells, you gradually descend for ten miles into Caherciveen.
The following day, we continued on the Ring of Kerry from Caherciveen to Sneem,
with some side trips along the way, making the stage 28 miles. Exit town and
continue on the N70 with about 10 miles of rolling hills and farmland. You pass
through Waterville, a small beach town on the edge of Ballinskelligs Bay.
Outside Waterville you begin climbing and will have some very nice panoramic
views of the bay. Continue about four miles to the crest of Coomakesta Pass for
more great photo ops. Then you will gradually descend into the Coomnahorna
Valley toward Caherdaniel. This is the point we turned off to Darrynane House;
the home of famous Irish Liberator Daniel O'Connell. The grounds are appealing
with many interesting varieties of plants and there are many trails to explore.
Retrace your steps to Caherdaniel and then climb to Castlecove. From here, there
is another interesting detour to Staig Fort; ancient remains from about 1000
B.C. Again, retrace your steps back to the N70 and continue to Sneem; a tidy
town with brightly painted buildings and an interesting park.
From Sneem, the next stage takes us on a 30 mile ride ending in Killarney. We
left Sneem on the north side on the R568. This little road has very little
traffic, aside from a large number of sheep. It winds its way for twelve miles
up to Moll's Gap. On your left are the Macgillycuddy's Reeks rock formations
formed in the Ice ages. Moll's Gap is about half way to Killarney and at 263
meters, the crest of the day's climb. From here, you continue on the N71 through
some different terrain. This is a very popular route for cyclists and you're
likely to see many. As you wind down toward Killarney, there barren rock walls
will be replaced by trees and shrubs. Also, you'll pass by several lakes.
Continue on the N71. You may want to stop by the Torc waterfall, the highest
waterfall in Ireland. Just outside Killarney is the Muckross House and Gardens;
another popular destination, as well as Ross Castle on Ross lake. Both Muckross
House and Ross Castle are open for tours. Next stop is Killarney, in the very
heart of County Kerry. This bustling town is full of shops and pubs with Irish
music.
From Killarney, we caught Irish Rail to Waterford County, where our trek took us
to the tiny town of Ring, on a hill overlooking Dungarvan Bay and the town of
Dungarvan. From Waterford County, it's Irish Rail back to Limerick, then a ride
back to Shannon for the return home.
If you'd like to know more details about
this ride, check out our DVD.
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