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  Cycling West Ireland

A visit to Ireland can take you back to your family roots or put you in touch with some of the most spectacular scenery in Europe. The narrow rolling roads and truly green countryside are a breath of fresh air.
We complemented our cycle rides with Irish Rail to connect some of the more distant spots and to trace our roots back a few generations and see the land left behind. Summer is an ideal time for a trip to Ireland. The days are quite long and allow for leisurely cycling, lots of sightseeing and still plenty of time for a great meal and a lively visit to the pub. Follow the map as you read the following description of a round trip from Shannon Airport, just outside Limerick in the West.
The ride starts at Shannon Airport, outside Limerick. As you exit the airport, you'll be reminded that driving and riding will be on the left. It seems unusual at first, especially when making those wide right turns; but you soon adjust. Follow the signs to Limerick, a 14 mile ride. You begin on the N19 from the airport. This is a major highway; however, there is a shoulder. After about a mile and a half you go through your first roundabout. Continue straight. Not long after that is another larger roundabout which will test your concentration. This is the junction with the N18, which will take you into Limerick. If you care to take the time, there is a very enjoyable stop along the N18; Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. After Bunratty you'll pass through another roundabout with signs to "Dublin City", which in fact is "Limerick". You'll cross over the River Shannon on the Sarsfield Bridge and enter Limerick Town Center. You'll want to begin working your way to the right side of the street as you will want to turn right and head to the rail station. The 78 mile rail journey to Tralee put us in a good position for the following day's climb. Jet lag was setting in and we were ready for a good night's sleep.
The next 35 mile ride goes from Tralee to Dingle, and includes a climb over Conor Pass at 544 meters. This can be a challenge to anyone, but most especially if the day is hot. Get an early start, drink lots of liquid and pace yourself. The reward is a terrific view, if the skies are clear and a fun downhill all the way from the pass into Dingle.
The following day's ride is a 20 mile loop, beginning and ending in Dingle. Don't forget your camera, and you may want to take a swimsuit as well. Along the way you pass some of Ireland's most ancient ruins as well as great views of the Blasket Islands and Coumeenoole Bay. Slea Head is the westernmost mainland point in Europe. Not far from here is one of the most remote beaches we've come across at "Carraig na Pairte".... a real treat on a hot day. Back in Dingle, be sure to visit the harbor and look for the Dolphin.
The next stage is a 36 mile ride of gently rolling hills from Dingle to Killorglin. Leave Dingle heading west from the Harbor. You'll pass through Lispole and follow the signs for Inch Strand, a four mile stretch of sandy beach in Dingle Bay. After the beach, watch for signs to Castlemaine. From there, follow the signs the last 8 miles to Killorglin on the river Lough. . Killorglin is on the famous "Ring of Kerry" loop, where you'll encounter lots of cyclists. 
We left Killorglin, with our destination Cahirciveen; 27 miles away. Follow the N70 toward Glenbeigh. After Glenbeigh you will continue toward Kells, the highest point of this stage and a good place to stop for refreshments. After Kells, you gradually descend for ten miles into Caherciveen.
The following day, we continued on the Ring of Kerry from Caherciveen to Sneem, with some side trips along the way, making the stage 28 miles. Exit town and continue on the N70 with about 10 miles of rolling hills and farmland. You pass through Waterville, a small beach town on the edge of Ballinskelligs Bay. Outside Waterville you begin climbing and will have some very nice panoramic views of the bay. Continue about four miles to the crest of Coomakesta Pass for more great photo ops. Then you will gradually descend into the Coomnahorna Valley toward Caherdaniel. This is the point we turned off to Darrynane House; the home of famous Irish Liberator Daniel O'Connell. The grounds are appealing with many interesting varieties of plants and there are many trails to explore. Retrace your steps to Caherdaniel and then climb to Castlecove. From here, there is another interesting detour to Staig Fort; ancient remains from about 1000 B.C. Again, retrace your steps back to the N70 and continue to Sneem; a tidy town with brightly painted buildings and an interesting park.
From Sneem, the next stage takes us on a 30 mile ride ending in Killarney. We left Sneem on the north side on the R568. This little road has very little traffic, aside from a large number of sheep. It winds its way for twelve miles up to Moll's Gap. On your left are the Macgillycuddy's Reeks rock formations formed in the Ice ages. Moll's Gap is about half way to Killarney and at 263 meters, the crest of the day's climb. From here, you continue on the N71 through some different terrain. This is a very popular route for cyclists and you're likely to see many. As you wind down toward Killarney, there barren rock walls will be replaced by trees and shrubs. Also, you'll pass by several lakes. Continue on the N71. You may want to stop by the Torc waterfall, the highest waterfall in Ireland. Just outside Killarney is the Muckross House and Gardens; another popular destination, as well as Ross Castle on Ross lake. Both Muckross House and Ross Castle are open for tours. Next stop is Killarney, in the very heart of County Kerry. This bustling town is full of shops and pubs with Irish music. 
From Killarney, we caught Irish Rail to Waterford County, where our trek took us to the tiny town of Ring, on a hill overlooking Dungarvan Bay and the town of Dungarvan. From Waterford County, it's Irish Rail back to Limerick, then a ride back to Shannon for the return home.
 

If you'd like to know more details about this ride, check out our DVD.